
"We vote with our fork and with the dollars we spend. The choices we make shape the future of the food supply chain and sustainability." — Chef Bryan Szeliga
Below, Chef Bryan shares his secret to making Loch Duart Scottish Salmon SHINE
Loch Duart Seared Salmon
4.5 oz Piece of Loch Duart Salmon
1 T grape seed oil
1 T butter
tt kosher salt (tt is 'To Taste')
Temper Loch Duart Salmon to room temperature. Heat saute pan over medium high
heat. Add grape seed oil. Season with salt and place in hot pan. Allow to cook until the
Loch Duart Salmon has a good sear and will release from the pan on its own. Flip with a
?sh spatula and add the butter. Tilt the pan and glacage (baste) with the butter. Allow
the butter to brown while basting. Immediately sprinkle a pinch of ?sh spice on top of the
seared Loch Duart Salmon. Remove pan from heat and allow the salmon to rest in the
pan with the brown butter for about 3 minutes until ready to serve. (The ?sh should be
?rm but have NO white (albumin) excreting from between the layers of ?esh). Before
plating rest salmon on a cloth napkin for about 30 seconds to remove the brown butter
and oil.
Fish Spice
Peel from 3 lemon
2 T fennel seed
1 T Sumac
Peel the lemons with a peeler and remove any of the white pith w/ a paring knife. Place
on sheet tray lined w/ parchment paper and place in oven w/ just the pilot light for 3 to 4
hours until all the moisture is removed. Add dried lemon peels, fennel seed, and sumac
into spice grinder and grind until ?ne.
Fennel Puree
2 ea onion (julian)
1 T grape seed oil
1/4 c butter
1 T heavy cream
2 ea bulb fennel (mandolin as thin as possible or julian)
1/2 C Pernod
tt Salt
Pre-heat rondeau over medium low heat and then add grape seed oil. Add the julian cut
onions, salt, and sweat for about 10 to 15 minutes. The goal is to cook the onion as
along as possible without getting color on the onions. Then add fennel and cook for
another 5 minutes. Again avoid any caramelization (color). Deglaze with the Pernod and
reduce for about 3 minutes. Add cream and reduce by half. Remove from heat and
place in Vita-Mix, puree with butter until smooth. Then pass though a chinoise. Season
with salt to taste.
d'Espelette Oil
1/2 C grape seed oil
2 T d'Espelette
Place grape seed oil in a small sauce pan and mix in d'Espelette. Steep on low heat for
about 10 minutes. (once oil is hot you can steep on just the pilot ?am or use a defuser to
prevent scorching). Allow oil to cool and strain though a coffee ?lter. Discard the
d'Espelette and reserve just the oil.
Garnish
Salmon Roe (keta, dog, or chum)
Fennel fronds
Fennel Pollen
Chef Notes:
-I do not use pepper for this dish. I ?nd that pepper does not pair well with Sumac. Also,
I never sear ?sh with pepper, I ?nd that since pepper has carbon the pepper just burns
when searing rather then enhancing the ?avor
-Use Chum roe for this dish if possible. Chum creates the most prized roe of all Paci?c
salmon.
-When I cook ?sh, it is a 'all about the ?sh'. I often use only a few ingredients when
cooking ?sh. My goal is to enhance the ?sh not hide the ?sh. To me fennel pairs with
salmon more then any other vegetable.
-I do not pre toast the fennel seeds for the ?sh spice mix. The spice mix will go on the
Loch Duart Salmon when the ?sh is very hot and I will glacage with brown butter and
will cook at that point. I believe toasting a head of time will allow for the fennel to
prematurely release its ?avor and aroma.
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Bryan Szeliga is a chef, fly fisherman, and salmon conservationist. Having recently moved to Charlottesville with his wife as she completes her doctorate, Bryan's goal is to fully experience the region's bountiful cuisine, culture, and indigenous foods. Long-term, his career goal to own a sustainable seafood restaurant.
Trained under chefs from The French Laundry, Le Bernardin, Fifth Floor, Jean-Georges, Farallon, and Aqua, Chef Bryan built up quite a reputation in the Portland restaurant scene. While at Little Bird, Bryan worked under Chef Gabriel Rucker, who recently won the James Beard Rising Star award. Bryan's stint at Paley's Place provided another mentor, Chef Paley Vitaly, winner of the 2005 James Beard Pacific NW best chef award.
Always close to Bryan's heart has been sustainability, particularly sustainable seafood. He has written for www.chefnews.com, been featured by Trout Unlimited for his salmon conservation efforts, authored articles "My Life As a Chef At $25 Per Entree" and "Lost Foods of the Far Corner" in Bear Deluxe Magazine, was interviewed for Chefs Collaborative sustainable seafood report and for Portland Tribune's Sustainable Living article Fishing for Solutions.
Currently, Chef Bryan is leading Orzo Kitchen and Wine Bar in Charlottesville through a kitchen transition.


This passionate chef would like to do his part in spreading knowledge about salmon — the species his holds very dear to his heart.
WHY FARM-RAISED SALMON IS NOT A BAD WORD
- 5 billion hatchery salmon are released into the Pacific Ocean every year (while nowhere near that amount of farm raised salmon escape their pens)
- 80% of Oregon 'wild' salmon are actually produced in hatcheries that are funded via the government through the Mitchell Act.
- Over 32% of Alaska 'wild' salmon are of hatchery origin and if the Bristol Bay fishery is removed, over 42% of Alaska 'wild' salmon are of hatchery origin!
- Only 1% of the salmon return to OR, WA, CA, ID compared to their historic numbers
- 28 of the 35 fish listed on the Marine/Anadromous Fish Species Under the Endangered Species Act (ESA) are salmon/steelhead
- The Seattle-based Purse Seine Vessel Owners Association (PSVOA) will pay WDFW $157,825 per year to continue operating the hatchery (so they can harvest and sell 'wild' salmon)
These are all factors that lead me to believe that farm raised salmon is part of the equation when it comes to the longterm sustainability of wild salmon.
___________________________________________ If you'd like to read up on why Farmed vs. Wild is the wrong conversation to be having... check out the recent blog posts by our CleanFish Chief Fishmonger, Dale Sims. |