It was time for a new story.

The year was 2004.

The destruction caused by Chile’s salmon industry had been exposed. How long could industrial fish-farms bleed an ecosystem before it collapsed? The verdict: just a couple of decades. On such a schedule, the world is small indeed.

Enter Tim O’Shea, eco-entrepreneur, and Dale Sims, veteran fishmonger, an unlikely pair on a timely mission — to use the marketplace to heal the oceans, one dinner at a time.

No boycotts. No broad guidelines or color codes. Just connect upstream artisan producers with downstream eaters, and tell the story of the fish so the choice would be clear.

A fresh way to think about the fish on your plate was born. And so was CleanFish.

Loch Duart salmon was the first CleanFish, bringing the gold standard of farmed salmon to North American tables for the first time. Then came shrimp from Mexico with Fisherman’s Daughter, and Belize with Laughing Bird.

Now, some 20 people in offices on both coasts are bringing over 25 kinds of seafood to the marketplace.